パンピングについて About the pumping

緩い波でのテイクオフを前回ご紹介しましたが、今回は緩い波でテイクオフした後に板を滑らせる方法をご紹介します。よく緩い波でサーファーが上下に体を動かしているのを見たことありませんか。この動作をパンピングと言います。緩い波でスピードがつかない時に、波の斜面へ落とし込むように前に体重をかけます。頭は動かさず、腰から膝へ体重をかける感じです。前へ倒した反動で今度はテールに体重をかけて、テールを沈めます。テールを沈めると同時に浮力で反発力がかかり、板が前に押されるようになります。この作業をリズム良く行うことで、緩い波でも繋げていくことが可能になります。是非練習してみてください。

I introduce the method of sliding the board after it takes off because of a loose wave this time though it introduced the takeoff because of a loose wave last time. Isn't there having seen the surfer moving its body up and down because of an often loose wave?This operation is called a pumping. Weight is put before it drops to the slope of the wave when the speed doesn't attach because of a loose wave. It is feeling that doesn't move the head, and puts weight from the waist to the knee. The tail is sunk putting weight on the tail this time in the reactionary ..knocking down ahead... The repulsion power is applied by the buoyancy at the same time as sinking the tail, and the board comes to be pushed to previous. It becomes possible to tie by doing this work well the rhythm even because of a loose wave. Please practice by all means.