波のうねり Surge of wave

今回は波のうねりについて、ご紹介させて頂きます。うねりとは、風によって起こります。はるか沖合いの低気圧や台風などの風が海面を揺らし、さざ波を立て、その波が重なり合ううちにうねりとなって岸に届きます。岸に届いたうねりは浅瀬に打ちあがることで持ち上がり、重力に耐え切れなくなってブレイクします。サーフィンにとって重要なのはうねりの大きさや距離も当然ながら、角度も大事になってきます。例えば、湘南では西うねりの時は良くても東うねりに変わると一気にサイズダウンすることがあります。うねりは半島や島などの障害物や潮の流れで進路を変えながら進んできます。うねりを読むことができれば、良い波を掴むことができますので、覚えておくほうがいいと思います。

Please let me introduce the undulation of the wave this time. It happens with undulation because of the wind. It becomes undulation while the low-pressure it is the offing greatly combination and the wind such as typhoons shake the surface of the sea, the wavelet is set up, and the wave overlaps and it reaches ashore. The undulation that reaches ashore lifts by striking to the shoal and going up, endures gravity, doesn't cut, and become a hit. As for importance for surfing, the angle becomes important as the size and the distance of undulation are also natural. For instance, the size might be downed in Shonan at a dash when changing into the east swelling even if it is good at the west swelling. Undulation advances while fetching about by the flow of the obstacle and the tides such as peninsulas and islands. I think that you should remember because I can grip a good wave if undulation can be read.