テイクオフできない原因について About the cause that cannot do the takeoff

波待ちをしていて、良い波が来たと思い、パドルを始めたのですが、波が逃げて行ってしまうことがありませんか。今回はそんな事になってしまう原因をいくつかご紹介させて頂きます。１つめの原因は波待ちの選択ミスです。良い掘れそうな波に見えたはずが、急に緩くなってしまう原因は地形の問題です。波待ちをしている場所を移動してみてはいかがでしょうか。２つめの原因は、波のピークの予測不足です。隣の人がブレイクした波に乗っていったのに、自分は波に置いてかれて乗れないケースの原因です。テイクオフの準備時のパドルの際も後ろを振り返り、ピークの位置を確認しましょう。３つめの原因は、パドルの問題です。パドル開始が遅ければ、波に置いてかれますし、スピードが遅くても置いてかれます。パドルに自信がない方は、練習あるのみです。パドルがしっかりできるようになれば、あとはタイミングだけです。タイミングは練習あるのみですので、やはり海に少しでも多く行くことが、うまくなる一番の近道ではないでしょうか。

Is the wave waiting done, and does the wave never never run away though it is thought that a good wave came, and started the paddle?Please let me introduce some causes of becoming such a thing this time. The first cause is a selection of wave waiting mistake. The cause that having to have seen the good wave that seems to be able to be dug becomes suddenly loose is a problem of geographical features. How if the place where the wave waiting is done is moved?The second cause is forecast shortage of the peak of the wave. I am a cause of the case where it is not possible to get on by putting on the wave and withering though I rid on the wave to which the next person becomes a hit. Let's look back on the back, and confirm the position of the peak in the paddle when the takeoff is prepared. The third cause is a problem of the paddle. It withers, and it puts even if the speed is slow and it withers putting on the wave if the paddle beginning is slow. Only not confident of the paddle is practiced and exists. Only timing if the paddle comes to be able to be steady. Isn't because only timing is practiced and exists, going to the sea still even a little a lot the best shortcut at which it becomes good?

速い波でのテイクオフについて About the takeoff because of a fast wave

波は大きさや向かってくるスピードが様々ですが、今回は速い波に対してのテイクオフについてご紹介致します。速い波に乗るために大事な事は素早いパトリングが重要です。ゆっくりパドリングしていたら、波が潰れてしまいます。波がブレイクする前に素早く立ち上がる姿勢になり、ブレイクする方向を確認します。テイクオフしたら、レールを波のフェイスに食わせて、一気にスピードにのっていきます。掘れた波やブレイクが速い波は、いかにピークから乗れることができるかが重要になります。まずは波をしっかり見て、ピークからテイクオフできるように心掛けましょう。

I will introduce the wave about the takeoff to a fast wave this time though the size and the speed at which it faces it are various. Quick [patoringu] of an important thing is important because it rides on a fast wave. The wave collapses when paddling is slowly done. It becomes posture in which it quickly stands up before the wave becomes a hit, and the direction that becomes a hit is confirmed. The rail is fed to the face of the wave, and it is ..speed.. on a roll at a dash when taking off. As for the wave with a fast hollow wave and hit, how it is possible to be able to get on from the peak becomes important. To do the takeoff from the peak by firmly first seeing the wave, let's bear it in mind.

海外トリップ時のボード梱包 Board packing at overseas trip

今回は海外へサーフトリップ時のボード梱包の重要性についてご紹介します。海外に行く際に、ボードをボードケースに入れているから安心と思っていたら、危険です。空港職員はボードと分かっていても、丁寧に扱いませんし、普通の荷物と同様な扱いをします。その結果、ボードが傷付き、現地に到着しても、海に入ることができず、残念な結果になってしまいます。そうならない工夫は簡単で、梱包すればいいのです。エアパッキンがあれば解決します。フィンを取ったボードをエアパッキンで包み、ノーズやテールは特に傷が付きやすいので、衣服なので包みます。少しの工夫で、サーフトリップでの災難を回避できますので、皆さんも海外に行く際は、ボードの梱包に気をつけましょう。

I introduce the importance of the board packing at the surf trip to foreign countries this time. It is dangerous when thinking it is safe because the board is put in the board case when going to foreign countries. The airport official politely doesn't treat, and do the treatment similar to usual luggage even if it understands as the board. As a result, it is not possible to enter the sea even if the board is damaged, and it arrives at the locale, and it becomes a regrettable outcome. If it is so, it only has to pack the device that not is easily. It solves it if there is [eapakkin]. Because the board that takes the fin is wrapped with [eapakkin], and the wound places easily to the nose and the tail especially, it wraps it because it is clothes. Take care about the packing of the board when you also go to foreign countries because the misfortune in the surf trip can be evaded by a few devices.

波のうねり Surge of wave

今回は波のうねりについて、ご紹介させて頂きます。うねりとは、風によって起こります。はるか沖合いの低気圧や台風などの風が海面を揺らし、さざ波を立て、その波が重なり合ううちにうねりとなって岸に届きます。岸に届いたうねりは浅瀬に打ちあがることで持ち上がり、重力に耐え切れなくなってブレイクします。サーフィンにとって重要なのはうねりの大きさや距離も当然ながら、角度も大事になってきます。例えば、湘南では西うねりの時は良くても東うねりに変わると一気にサイズダウンすることがあります。うねりは半島や島などの障害物や潮の流れで進路を変えながら進んできます。うねりを読むことができれば、良い波を掴むことができますので、覚えておくほうがいいと思います。

Please let me introduce the undulation of the wave this time. It happens with undulation because of the wind. It becomes undulation while the low-pressure it is the offing greatly combination and the wind such as typhoons shake the surface of the sea, the wavelet is set up, and the wave overlaps and it reaches ashore. The undulation that reaches ashore lifts by striking to the shoal and going up, endures gravity, doesn't cut, and become a hit. As for importance for surfing, the angle becomes important as the size and the distance of undulation are also natural. For instance, the size might be downed in Shonan at a dash when changing into the east swelling even if it is good at the west swelling. Undulation advances while fetching about by the flow of the obstacle and the tides such as peninsulas and islands. I think that you should remember because I can grip a good wave if undulation can be read.

防寒グッズのご紹介 Introduction of protection against the cold goods

冬場の海が非常に寒いことは、皆さんご存知だと思います。今回は、寒がりな方にお勧めのグッズを1つご紹介させて頂きます。その商品とは防水カイロというグッズになります。防水カイロはウエットを着る前、腰に巻いて使用します。防水カイロを腰に装着すると、腰からじんわりと体全体に温かさが伝わるので、海の中でも寒さが半減するということです。このカイロは使用後に熱を加えることで、何度でも繰り返し使えるというエコロジーな商品になります。1回の有効使用時間は約1時間半～2時間ということなので、2ラウンド入る人は入替用カイロを持っていれば、2ラウンド目も温かく波乗りができます。寒がりな方はもちろんの事、腰痛が心配な人、そして身体をあまり冷やしてはいけない女性には大変便利な商品だと思いますので、是非試してみてください。

I think that the very cold in the sea of winter it knows you. This time, please let me introduce one recommended goods to person exceedingly sensitive to the cold one. It becomes goods of waterproof heating pad with the commodity. The waterproof heating pad is rolled in the waist before it puts on wet and used. Waist [karajin] is to reduce the cold by half in the sea because warmth is comparatively transmitted to the every part of the body when the waterproof heating pad is installed in the waist. Degrees of this heating pad how many ..ecology that it is possible to use it repeatedly.. become [akina] goods by heating it after it uses it. The second round can also surf as it is warm if the second round entrant has the heating pad for the replacement because one effective use time is about one and a half hours - two hours of it. It is thought that it is a very convenient commodity, and try to the woman who doesn't cool the person and my body that an of course thing and lumbago are worried so much about person exceedingly sensitive to the cold one by all means, please