各地の波特徴 大洗編 The wave feature of every place Edited by Oarai

本日は、私が初テイクオフをした場所であります、大洗の波の特徴のご紹介です。

～特徴～
地形が深いためショアブレイクがきつい。左側堤防脇の三角波が特長。大雨の後は、那珂川の川水が入り込みカレントが強くなることも特長。

～波の質～
ビーチのわりには面が硬くパワフルな波質。全体に満潮時は波がヨレてしまうが、潮が引くと掘れて速めのブレイクとなり中～上級者向きの波。北風、東～南のウネリがベスト。春先の海水が冷たい時期も良くなることが多い。ビーチが急に深くなり、ボトムの砂が堅くあまり移動がないので、ショアブレイクのように、テイクオフポジションから急激に掘れチューブを巻くこともある。

～危険な場所～
立て網漁の漁場になっていて、操業中は波打ち際まで漁船が入って来るので、大変危険。付近に決して近づかないこと。

～注意事項～
水族館正面はビ－チだが、少し南はリ－フが隠れていて危険なので注意。


I am introduction of the feature of the wave of Oarai which is the place which carried out the first takeoff today. ? feature? Since geographical feature is deep, a SHOA break is tight. The chopping sea of the left-hand side bank side is the feature. In after heavy rain, it is also the feature that of Nakagawa enters and becomes strong. The quality of ? wave? with it. a field hard considering a beach, and powerful at it can dig in it, if tide pulls to the whole, a wave serves as a quicker break at it, and a high tide is a wave for inside ? upper persons of a north wind and east ? south is the best. The time when sea water at the beginning of spring is cold also becomes good in many cases. Since a beach becomes deep suddenly and there is no movement not much firmly the sand of a bottom like a SHOA break, it can dig rapidly from a takeoff position and a tube may be rolled. ? a dangerous ? place Very dangerous, since it stands, it has become a fishery of net fishing and a fishing boat enters to a beach during operation. Never approach near. ? notes? Although the aquarium front is BI ? CHI, for a while, Li ? FU is hidden, and since it is dangerous, it is careful of south.