地形を知ろう

本日は、昨日ご紹介致しました波を知ろうの中から地形を知ろうを
ピックアップ致します。
波は浅瀬に入り込んだうねりが持ち上げられて、重力に耐え切れずに
ブレイクします。海底の勾配が緩やかだと徐々に持ち上げられて、ゆっくりと
崩れる波になりやすく、逆に急勾配だと急に持ち上げられて、一気に崩れる波に
なりやすいです。また、岩や珊瑚や砂や玉石などの地形によっても変化します。
ビギナーにおススメはワイプアウトしてもそこまで痛くない砂になります。
ちなみに…私は近々、海底が珊瑚の海に果敢にも挑戦してきます。血をみるかも
しれないのですが、大変楽しみにしております。
私の果敢な挑戦の結果に乞うご期待ください！！

I will get to know geographical feature.


I take [ the wave introduced yesterday ] up for geographical feature out of today. The surge which entered the shoal is raised and a wave takes a break, without bearing and going out for gravity. If the submarine slope is loose, it will be raised gradually, it is easy to become a wave which collapses slowly, if it is a steep slope conversely, it will be raised suddenly, and it is easy to become a wave which collapses at a stretch. Moreover, it changes also with the geographical features of a rock, coral, sand, Tamaishi, etc. Even if it carries out wipe out of SUSUME to a beginner, it becomes sand which is not painful to there. Incidentally -- I challenge also bold [ the seabed ] to the sea of coral soon. Although blood may be seen, I am looking forward to it very much. the result of my bold challenge is asked -- please expect!!